Sanding & Sandpaper

Sanding is an activity people find themselves doing semi-frequently. Whether working on a design project, restoring a piece of furniture, or doing some basic repair, sandpaper can be your ally on numerous occasions. So let’s get a good understanding of it, and what you’ll need to know before you use it.

Sandpaper is made up of sharp edges designed to cut away at wood and metal. This is done by glueing these edges in various shapes onto a backing material with a bonding agent. The sharp edges can be made from any number of materials, and together are called the grit of the sandpaper. The amount of particles per square inch of sandpaper determines the grit size, which is how sandpaper is measured. This is good to know because the sandpaper you will choose will depend on how coarsely you want to sand. The heavier and more thorough the job, the smaller the grit. The larger the grit, the finer the result. Sandpaper will fall between 40 and 600 grit, giving a wide array of options to pick the best one for your job.

Garnet, emery, aluminum oxide, and silicon carbide are four commonly used particles that makeup the grit. Garnet is standard for general wood sanding. Emery is of good use for abrading or polishing metal. Aluminum oxide is a good option for contoured surfaces, or smoothing flat surfaces. Silicon carbide is among the coarsest, making it a good option for stripping or cutting through hard materials, including finishes and paint.

If you are doing woodwork, carpentry, or stripping a surface that is not fragile, a low, heavy grit will do the job. Prep work can be different, however. If you are preparing to prime and paint, your desired result will be a flat, smooth surface. With drywalls, 120 or 150-grit sandpaper will do well, given you don’t apply too much pressure. When sanding drywall, also remember to wear a dust mask, and reduce a breeze if possible, so the dust isn’t carried to settle throughout the house. If you’re preparing to repaint a room, rather than stripping the paint completely, you may first choose a coarser sandpaper to remove the bumps, and then a very fine one to smooth over once it’s complete, even up to 600-grit.

Most jobs that require a finish will benefit from, if not need, to be sanded. Choosing the right paper will allow you to get the best results, even if it means putting in longer work. The coarser the sand, the quicker the job. However, coarse sands can cause scratches that will show up later on. When in doubt, follow up a strong job with a fine sandpaper to finish, up to 220-grit. It’s important not to get impatient, because finish will amplify any scratches that may not have been noticeable on the bare surface. If you have a specialty job, double check with a professional in that industry for recommendations on the correct sandpaper to use, as you don’t want to damage the piece you’d like to refinish.

Finished and Fixed: Wooden Furniture

Most of our homes are peppered with wooden pieces of furniture. And itʼs no mystery
why! Wooden furniture provides a classic, elegant and versatile addition to compliment
any design. With use and age however, wooden furniture is vulnerable to being
blemished. Scratches, stains, and dents, all work their ways into it overtime. There are a
few simple tricks that can help keep your furniture looking new.

1) Hide Scratches with Markers.

One simple solution that is most effective on darker woods, is to use a furniture touch-up marker, which you can find in your local hardware and home improvement stores. These are a very convenient, quick way to color scratches that have caused discoloration. It does not make a mess, and uses a small amount of stain to carefully fill in the scratch.

2) Mineral Spirits
Mineral spirits are a safe way to clean and polish wood furniture to keep it looking its
best! This is important as water will damage finished wood, causing further discoloration
and minor distortion. Because most standard cleaners use water, overtime they can
damage your furniture. Mineral spirits will not only clean, but can penetrate the polish to
remove embedded dirt. Any stronger solvent will damage the finish itself, so the mineral
spirits will be a good option to wipe the dirt away.

3) Rub Scratches Away
If you are careful not to rub the stain beneath the finish, you can use a fine, steel wool
pad to gently remove and buff fine scratches. To do this, mix a steel wool pad, as fine as
you can find, with a Danish oil. Using a flat hand and rubber gloves, rub gently with the
grain. Avoid corners and edges, as you could easily discolor the furniture by removing
stain. This is good only for light scratches that have not penetrated into the stain or the
wood itself. Once this is done, allow the wool to dry outside before throwing it away.
This is extremely important, as it can spontaneously combust if thrown away wet.

Keeping your wooden furniture looking new is a simple and inexpensive task that takes
very little time. It will allow the design of your room to remain clean and tasteful, as well
as preserve your furniture for years to come.

Why Ceiling Fans?

We are still in the full swing of summer, being hit with relentless heat waves! For most, air conditioning is a necessary addition to keep cool over the summer. But for those without it, or those looking for a more cost-effective option, installing a ceiling fan can help save on long-term maintenance costs and utility bills. Air conditioners average around 3500 watts of energy to run, whereas a ceiling fan will average only 60 watts, even on high. This is a significant difference that over the course of the summer will save on your energy bills. While ceiling fans do not cool the air the way air conditioning units do, it does circulate air. This will create a breeze that will make the room feel cooler. 

If you’re replacing a current light fixture in your home with a ceiling fan, the first step is to determine what size of a fan you need to properly circulate air. The larger the room, the larger the fan you’ll need. Ceiling fans commonly come in three sizes: 36 inch diameter, 42 inch diameter, and 52 inch diameter. Small rooms under 12 feet will suffice with a 36 inch fan. Large rooms over 15 feet should use a 52 inch fan. Anything in between will appreciate a 42 inch fan. 

When choosing a fan, also check the blades. In order to get well-circulated air, your blade angle should be at least twelve degrees. Ideally more. Also, because ceiling fans replace light fixtures, it’s usually a good idea to opt for the light assembly as well. 

Installing a fan in place of an existing light is a project that you may be able to do yourself, however will involve some electrical work, and ceiling work. Because fans tend to be very heavy, it’s important not to install one without a brace inside the ceiling to hold the weight. You don’t want your fan to crash in on you! You can purchase ceiling braces with instructions for installation at a local hardware store. If any part of the process is uncomfortable, considering hiring a licensed electrician to install the fan for you.

During the summer, for maximum circulation, you can keep the fan on a higher setting. Newer fans usually give you a choice of counterclockwise or clockwise. Depending on the angle of your blades, one of these options should give you the best breeze. To determine, stand directly beneath the fan. You should feel a breeze almost immediately after turning it on. If you don’t, try the opposite direction. Fans aren’t just for summer, either! During the winter, it will come in handy to move heat throughout the house. Try the direction opposite of the one you chose for summer, and keep it on a low setting. To test this, stand near a wall. You should feel a gentle, warm breeze.

Keeping the air moving throughout the home is a good way to maintain temperature control while keeping your energy costs down. It also can provide an added aesthetic appeal to any design, and provide lighting. When choosing a fan, so long as you go in knowing what to look for, and with a plan for installation, you’ll find the process a simple, enjoyable one. 

Your Sparkling Shower: Maintenance Help

You use it every day. It’s always there for you, ready to give you warm water when you need it. But

are you there for it also? Because of how much we use showers, they need regular maintenance. From cleaning to repairing, let’s go over some basics for shower care.

Cleaning

As a shower is used, soaps, chemicals, dirt, and other remnants are flooded around and through the shower. Overtime this builds up, creating the residue that we see. Cleaning is important for more than just hygiene. If allowed to progress, mildew can grow and bacteria can breed, creating stains and damaging the surface. 

At a minimum, you should scrub and disinfect your shower once a month. Ideally once a week. Consider wiping down the surface after each use, to prevent any soap that didn’t wash away to stick. When cleaning, generally use a nonabrasive liquid that is free from acetate, and hot water. However, depending on your shower, you may consider looking at your manufacturer’s recommendations, especially if your shower is tiled. 

Maintenance

If your shower is tile, the water will inevitably do damage. Showers are sealed to allow protection from the water, but this needs to be kept up as well. You should reseal the grout and tile twice a year to reinforce it. Also, check occasionally for loose, damaged tiles. Keep a close eye on the grout as well. When damage occurs, be quick to mend it. Otherwise, the water can move past the tile into the wall and floor, causing greater damage.

The edges of the shower and fixtures are always caulked or sealed to keep the water inside the shower. While water resistant, this also can deteriorate overtime. Caulk leaks can go unnoticed if not looked for carefully. This is why it’s important to replace your caulk every three to five years. Once a year, you should scrutinize the caulk to find any noticeable leaks.

The last piece of inspection should be the door and all around it. Shower door tracks have leaking systems built in to allow the water to drain out into the shower. If water is being trapped, you may need to fix that as well. A quick fix is to drill holes, at an angle, into the track so that the water can drain back into the shower unit. 

Finally, be sure to watch for leaks. Both around the shower, and beneath it. If your shower is on the second floor, watch the ceiling underneath. If leaking occurs that you cannot get a handle on, it may be time to bring in a professional. However, good maintenance and upkeep should help you keep your shower lasting long, looking new, and sparkling clean! If you have any troubles with your shower that seem excessive, be sure to contact a professional to take a look!

Interior Painting: The Basics

If there is one design improvement project that you will find yourself doing throughout your life, it is likely painting. Whether you’re moving into a new place, giving a facelift to an existing space, or indulging your children in a bright new change for their rooms, painting makes its way into most of our lives. Painting is a quick way to update an outdated space and change the character of a room. Here, we will cover some of the basics that you need to know to get started.

Know your paint 

Base coats are usually needed, and always a better option. This not only helps your paint job look

better, but will help it last longer and stay in better condition. There are two options to work with: a primer, and a first coat. You can also find them combined. A primer is especially important if you’re painting atop a new, uncoated surface. It will protect the surface, and serves as an effective base. A first coat is best used when you want the most visual coverage underneath your finish coat. Pick a color that matches the brightness of your finish coat. In some cases, you may need to give your base coat a second paint over before applying a finishing coat.

The finish coats serve as your decorative options. This is where your creativity comes into play! There are four general options when it comes to choosing the right paint. One of the generally preferred choices is eggshell paint. Eggshell is quite durable and has a small level of sheen to it. This varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. With eggshell paint, you may desire two coats to make the color even. Another choice is flat paint. Flat paint is latex-based, and quite versatile. Flat paint offers a variety of finishes in varying degrees of matts. One of the benefits of flat paint is that it can be good for coping with moisture, especially when it contains vinyl, as some formulations do. Gloss and satin are good options for those who like a shine to their walls. These options come with either a latex base, or a solvent base. Latex is a easier to apply option, but solvent will provide the most shine to your finish. With satin, you’ll have a slightly less shiny finish. With gloss, you’ll get the most shine, and likely only need one coat of finish.

Paint it right

Before painting, cover a few bases. If you’re painting around windows, doors, and electrical outlets, consider painters’ tape to protect edges from unwanted paint. It is inexpensive and quick to apply, and will help you make clean lines. Next, make sure you have the right equipment. A roller is going to do most of the work, and you will also need a small brush to cut in along edges and corners. You may opt for painting pads as well, which are very useful for further protecting trim. Don’t forget a paint tray, and consider keeping a small bottle of paint remover on hand in case you do make a mistake.

When you’re ready to begin, make sure your paint is thoroughly mixed. If you are using a stir stick, allow yourself extra time for completion. Subtle changes in color can show up later if the paint has not been fully stirred. Start with the corners and edges first, cutting in with your hand brush. Then move on to the roller, covering the rest of the walls. Once covered, check for thin spots. Reapply as needed. 

A job well done will bring a fresh look to your room. If you are unable to paint it yourself, or have any hesitation, consider contacting one of our trusted contractors to do the job for you. Remember that no job is so important it needs to be done wrong. Happy painting!

July Newsletter - 2014

The July Newsletter is now available! See what has been going on in the contractor world!

Your Skylit Room

Windows require regular maintenance and cleaning in general. It’s worth it, because they give us sunshine and a breeze during the day. Skylights are a little different. One advantage to them is that the maintenance and cleaning required is minimal, compared to the rest of the windows in the home. When installed and positioned properly, the rain will wash away most of the exterior debris. The interior dust collection is also minimized simply by its location. However, occasional cleaning will still be needed. Condensation, dirt, spider webs, and various determinants will cause dirt to gather slightly overtime. Let’s look at a few ideas to get the most out of your skylight. 

The first step is to know your skylight. Older skylights were often built without a protective coating and will need more regular cleaning. Is your skylight plastic, or glass? If it’s plastic, there’s a good likelihood it’s made from acrylic, or polycarbonate. If it’s made from glass, check to see if it’s fiberglass. Fiberglass needs special care and attention. If you have a fiberglass window, please follow your manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Is your skylight made from Plexiglas? This will have a more regressive aging process, causing it to look opaque. Modern skylights are much more durable, and many have been reinforced for weather protection. 

You’ll also want to know your frame. There’s a good chance you already have an aluminum frame, as these are quite common. Aluminum frames don’t need more than a simple cleaning when you clean your windows. Be mindful of the climate you live in, however. If you are in a climate with heavy rain, or near the ocean, the precipitation can overtime eat into the aluminum. A good option in this case is to protect your frame with paint. If you have a frame with a painted metal finish, an annual inspection is a good idea. Look for any spots where the paint may have rubbed off, and touch it up with a paint recommended by your window’s manufacturer. 

Next let’s look at the upkeep. Skylights are famous for being low-maintenance. In fact, one of the best things you can do for your skylight is often to leave it alone! An overexcited attempt to clean can often cause damage. It’s good to check it for pre-existing damage, but don’t clean it more than you need to. One reason is due to the chemicals found in common cleaners. If you have a protective film on your skylight, the chemicals can erode it. If your skylight is made of plastic, you’ll never want to use an abrasive cleaner, pad, or cloth. Treat these gently, or you will scratch and warp your skylight, which is a much greater impediment than dust. Rather, use a soft cleanser such as dish soap, and a soft cloth to gently clean away any collecting dust.

Even with the best care, in time your skylight will need to be replaced. If you find upon inspection that the cuts run too deep, and you cannot clean away the clouds, it might be time to invest in a new skylight. This is especially valuable to you if you have an older one without a protective film. Doing so will keep your room sunlit for years to come! Questions? Contact one of our trusted contractors to help you out!